A Winter Top

I loved this fabric when I bought it and it's been in my stash for ages. It's a jersey knit, with plenty of stretch. I liked the feel of it so I bought it...It was really enjoyable sewing this fabric, I was really careful pressing it as I didn't want the fabric to stretch any further.

The one and only problem I had, and it was my own fault. I overlocked the hem, then used a twin needle to top stitch the hem (too lazy to change the thread on my Janome cover-pro). This was a big mistake...Firstly I should not have tried to twin needle stitch over an overlocked edge...The whole hem had major tunnelling. Actually I didn't know why I did this because usually I just sew without overlocking the edge if I'm using a twin needle.

Lesson learnt...I re-did the hem with the cover-stitch machine and it turned out perfect.

Unpicking started off well, I use cheap snips to do this...Though in
the end I cut the hem off and started again.

The cover stitching was perfect, no missed stitches. I used my 'Humper
Jumper' to go over the seams.

Vogue 8634 Size: M. Easy sew a little big fitting wise, but I would definitely sew
this top again.

Long top made to be worn with tights...not over this A frame skirt. I had
a reluctant model who didn't want to change into tights for the pic.

It looks lovely and warm for winter but I think I could have made it
slightly more fitted...

Side view...

The fitting of this top is a bit big  because my model had 2 layers
of clothing underneath when I did the fitting so now it looks slightly loose!

McCalls 7130 Skirt

A Sewing Disaster

I've just tried out McCall's 7130 skirt pattern,  Size  L. All went very well until I pinned it together, then it started to stretch bigger, and bigger. I think it had ended up more like a XL. Otherwise it's a great pattern and I'd use it again definitely.

What a surprise for me  I made most of the skirt on my Elna 745 overlocker with no problems at all..In fact it was a dream to sew with.

Finished skirt hanging on the line looks more like a coffee sack and not really
true to colour...it's much brighter.

Unfortunately though I had a bad Janome cover-pro day. I fixed up the stitch tension the other day so everything was set up ready to go, and I was sewing happily away until the stitches broke...Then the Janome Cover-pro didn't make any stitches and then it did. In fact this is the worst cover hem I have ever done...

So much for my three thread cover-pro. By the way I have never ever had success with using 3-thread stitch on the Janome the thread always breaks. What a mess my hem became, it was it was just plain ugly and chewed up... Don't you hate that?

What a mess! No I'm not unpicking it, much too hard to do...I'll have
to cut it off!

The finished skirt is wearable, but the photo doesn't do it justice as it's not so sack like when wearing it. The hem is not good though and I've left the hem for now.  I'm going to decide whether to chop it off and start again using the 2-thread stitch.

The finished hem...and a plain stretch stitch hem using the Juki on another
skirt. The other skirt look much better. I knew I should have just used a 
plain stretch stitch and not bothered with the Janome Cover-pro.

In the midst of it all the fat cat sat and the brown dog watched...

Behaving themselves for once...they love to be where I am, just watching.

After all this trouble I'm now playing around with the Janome. I  have now changed the Janome Cover-pro back to a narrow two thread. The stitches below look perfect. So I will see how It all goes on the next knit garment I sew.

Perfect! Do you find that when you set your machine up to sew in a couple of
 days/ Then when you use it, it seems like Gremlins have been at it and all the
tensions are changed. The numbers no longer work...

Trouble in Paradise: Elna 745

I knew it was too good to be true....that Elna 745 always causes me grief! Well for almost two hours, could I re-thread this overlocker after changing to grey thread? No, I didn't take my own advice to completely re-thread the machine when changing thread. I left the two needles with the threads on and re-threaded in any order. Big mistake the Elna 745 stitches became a tangle of grey with no chain stitch in sight!

This new thread cost around $30.00 for 5 cones with postage, made in India
bought in NZ. Has anyone used this brand before?

Lesson learnt...You must, yes you MUST re-thread in  the order stated not tie knots in the thread and take the easy way out. This machine does not like it. Well mine certainly does not, others may differ. I found out what the problem was, I needed to start back at the beginning and re-thread the Elna 745 correctly. Yes it was all my fault, I also forgot to put the thread through the clamps at the top of the machine as well.

Sewers of a young age...make the most of your young, sharp eyes, because these are the stupid mistakes you make when you are old, though not old, old yet. Not having so sharper eye sight, and two hours to spare you miss the obvious. Oh I wish I still had the eye sight of my youth I could sew black at night, see every little stitch.

Now in NZ it's almost spring and I feel like sewing, not sure what yet so I'm getting my machines ready for a hive of activity...Well I hope so I've had a long drought of no interest in sewing whats so ever.

Thanks goodness it wasn't the thread that upset my Elna's stitches..
All good now Elna 745 5-thread all ready for action.

Elna 745: 5-Thread Stitch

You know I only use this machine to sew a 2- thread rolled hem....It's rather a waste of a machine. But I have never been able to make friends with this overlocker. I either hate it, or just tolerate it.

Though I must say it's ability to power through the fabric is way much more superior than my other overlockers. I know I'm rather spoilt for choice, and that comes with age. I have been lucky enough able to try different machines as I have got older. Hence I have more overlockers than I should.

Today I dusted off the Elna 745 and decided to once again try and fix the 5-thread stitch. I bought the overlocking machine for the 5-thread only. Except the chain always kept breaking and it just would sew a 4-thread stitch.

Now to try and fix the 745 I went back to basics and did a total re-thread in the order suggested. Then changed the needles and oiled the machine.

Hmm...the spool holders won't slide to the bottom...
Are they supposed too? Maybe I have mixed up machine cones.

It's easy to oil...Just oil here

I did it I can't believe it worked. I loosened off the tension on the lower
looper which is used for making the chain stitch. It was that simple.

Next I wrote everything down that I did and  then glued a sample in a sewing book. So if it does not work again I will have a point of reference. Are we friends the 745 and I? Maybe for now...

More on The Merrylock 740DSA Overlocker

Do you struggle with looking for information on the 4-thread Merrylock 740DSA? It seems to be almost invisible on the Internet, my country New Zealand, doesn't have a lot of information either. Though it can still be bought off trade me  at (Direct Sewing Machines-Auckland) or here.

Juki MO-50/51e, any information you find on this serger/overlocker will also apply to the 4- thread Merrylock 740DSA.

Here are my latest findings...The Juki 50/51 MO-e  can now be bought in New Zealand through trade me  (Auckland Sewing). So If you wanted a Merrylock and can't get one you can get a Juki or visa versa. The Juki comes with the DVD.

Also the facade of the Juki MO-51/50 is different to the Merrylock but the three of them still have the same workings, threading, stitches etc.

Images © Sew Sister and Google

 You can see the facade on the Juki is totally different to the Merrylock
which is just straight and flat. Image© goggle

A video I like a lot on you tube gives you very specific instructions on the Juki MO-51e, and the instructions are suitable for the 4-thread Merrylock 740 DSA also. These are exactly the same instructions for learning to use the 4-thread Merrylock 740 DSE. 




One important lesson I did learn was the Merrylock overlocker/serger must be re threaded in order all the time. You will laugh at this one...I only discovered where my accessories were a few months back. They are hidden within the machine, nice and tidy...

Image © Sew Sister

Instruction Manual For Juki MO-51e:

To download the manual PDF go to http://www.jukihome.com/products/serging50.html. This website takes a moment to open. Use this manual if you have not got a 4-thread Merrylock Manual it's the same instructions.


Juki Household Sewing Machine, Japan shows accessories that can be bought for the Juki MO-50e overlocker/serger, and I would say these will fit the Merrylock also. See here for MO-50e attachments.

Another Blogger has done a good review on the Juki; blog post-review Juki MO 50e/51e . This is worth having a look at too.

Optional Attachments For Juki and Merrylock:

• Blind Stitch Foot
• Elasticator Foot
• Beading Foot
• Piping Foot
• Gathering Foot
• Taping Foot

Merrylock 740DSA Tension

Not my favourite thing but here we go....

Here is the tension setting I usually use for my Merrylock 740DSA Overlocker. I've tried other settings, but I usually come back to this one. It seems to work on cotton, and stretch fabric okay...Never tried it really heavy fabric but for mid-weight fabric the stitch seems fine.

Stitch length dial setting.

Keeping a record...

Cutting width adjustment.

Differential feed dial setting.

Using these tension numbers at present.

Overlocker Thread on Cotton Flannel fabric.

Jaile Circle Skirt 2456

Jaile sewing pattern 2456 was pretty easy to use, plus sew.  I should have used one size smaller to give the tiered skirt a much tighter fit. Unfortunately I sewed the rolled hem first (lesson to be learnt here). This made it impossible for me to take it in without losing the length of the skirt. You can't unpick my rolled hem without cutting the fabric, hence it's best to cut off. Because the person is tall whom I'm sewing this skirt for it would have been too big a sacrifice too lose some of the length. Also I never made the pants that go underneath so the length mattered...

I did lengthen the waist band slightly, and then doubled it as I did on the red skirt...Next time when sewing this skirt I certainly won't sew the rolled hem first. Also I think I won't double the waist band to attach to the two tiered skirt. This made the seam bulky because of the thickness of the Lycra.

Details:

Pattern: Jaile 2456, Download from Jaile
Fabric: 4 way sparkly wet look stretch Lycra
Cost: Around $30.00 per metre for fabric only
Size: AA (14)
Style: Pull on tiered circle skirt

Sewing my First Jaile Pattern

Finally I have found myself behind the machine sewing....

This adult sized circular skirt was sewn up in an evening and I was very happy with the pattern. It fitted well. I did lengthen a couple of inches onto the waist/hip band and left the pants out...Perhaps I could have gone a size smaller for fit around the waist band though.

I had a few scraps  left so I made little skirts for the girls in a size 4, that's the only pattern size fitted onto my left over scraps of fabric. A size 5 would have been better....The sparkly Lycra was a hit. I must say I enjoyed sewing the Lycra fabric it was a nice weight to sew. Sometimes Lycra can be tricky (well for me anyway).

Details:

Pattern: Jaile 3025, Download from the Jaile website.

Fabric: 4 way Sparkly wet look stretch Lycra

Cost: Around $30.00 per metre

Size: AA (14) for adult skirt

Size: H (4) for child's skirt

Style: D-Circular skirt

Fabric covered in small glittery dots...giving a wet look to it.

More MerryLock Musings

I managed to source some more useful information from the Internet. This will help with using your Merrylock 740DSA overlocker. This is so exciting...as there is really no good information out there for Miss Merrylock 740DSA! 

The information for using the Juki MO 51e overlocker shows almost identical instructions that I have for the Merrylock 4-thread overlocker.

This review is very helpful,  especially if you were given no machine instructions, or you bought your Merrylock 4-thread machine second hand. The instructions include clear photos. which demonstrate the workings of the Juki MO 51e (which is the same as Merrylock 740DSA workings).

Check the review for the Juki MO 51e  here at sewinginsight.com.

Merrylock 740 DSA on the left. Rubina 740 DSA, middle and Juki MO 51e on the right.
All images © Google

Is the Merrylock 740DSA The Same as Juki MO 51e Overlocker?

I think it is, and I have found another You Tube video to follow. It's on the Juki MO 51e...This has certainly helped me. I now have my Merrylock 740 DSA 4 Thread overlocker's tension just perfect...so proud! Well until the cat finds the machine and all the cotton and I'll be trying tp get the tension perfect again...

Merrylock 4 Thread740DSA : Aka Rubina 740DSA

I found this video by chance when I was looking for more information on the Merrylock 740DS 4 Thread Overlocker. This video's is in Russian I think, (forgive me if I have this wrong). I found the this video really good to follow, even though it is not in English my native language.

It seems that the Merrylock 740DSA goes under another brand name of 'Rubina 740DSA Overlocker'. Who would have thought? Now I know...

How to do a Rolled Hem: Merrylock 740DSA

Parts of my Merrylock 740DSA manual is missing, the pages for doing a 3 thread rolled hem are not there. Now I can say with confidence that using the Merrylock 2020 manual I downloaded (address in post below) has been a great help and very useful. Because now I can do the 3-thread rolled hem and I'm so pleased with myself. Although I  will need to fine tune it, perhaps by using different thread, the one I'm using is weird...funny stuff! Or maybe I need to change my needle!

Instructions for rolled hem on the Merrylock 740DSA

The pages that you need to know about for making a 3-thread rolled hem stitch in the Merrylock 2020 manual are page 30, 37 and 38. Page 30 gives you a handy reference chart and if you look at number 7, it shows you the needle position and tensions, then refers you onto page 38.

On page 37 titled 'How To Sew A Rolled Hem' it gives you ideas as to what fabrics work best. Then further down the page you have 'Machine Set-up' and it tells you to remove the left needle and so forth.

When looking at page 38 you will see the tables for needle position, stitch length and tension dial numbers. The instructions are very clear and they have worked for me. I can do the 3-thread rolled hem. Except I probably need to play around with the thread plus tension (I saw some odd loops), but the stitch is definitely passable.

I didn't take the needle out I just unthreaded it...I knew
 I had to put it back in so I couldn't be bothered.

Very simple to switch over...

Page 38 in the Merrylock 2020 Manual

I liked this one it's the one below in my sample..on page 38 also

Not a bad effort for first try...

Looking for a Merrylock Overlocker Manual?

I cannot believe it has taken me all this time to realize that half my Merrylock overlocker manual is missing...My booklet just goes to page 21 this is so bad! If it wasn't for someone querying the 3 thread rolled hem which is on page 29 I would have been oblivious forever...I have never done the rolled hem on this machine...Has anyone out there got any tips on how to do this?

I have found another Merrylock manual on line for the 2020 and it's in a pdf which is handy for printing. I thought it might help for learning the 3 thread rolled hem....Not sure though as I haven't had a chance to read it yet.

Here is the address for the Merrylock 2020 4 thread overlocker manual (it takes a while to load ). Save the pdf to the desktop for future reference. It may be of some use.

Additional Information on the Merrylock 2020 can be found here Also other Merrylock machines are to be found at SewReview.com too. At present they don't have anything on the Merrylock 740DSA on there. Actually if you are in the market to purchase any new sewing machine or overlocker/serger this is a great site to check out the brands and models, reviews etc.

Update:
Merrylock 740DSA manual can be bought here. It's in Euro's and I haven't tried to buy it because I am not sure if  it is any different to the one I own that has no rolled hem instructions. If anyone has bought one and it actually has page 29 in it let me know...

Japanese Pattern: Gathered Skirt With a Bow

Have you checked out the ebook How To Sew Japanese Patterns on the blog Sew in Love by Rin.

I purchased it sometime last year, saved it to a hard drive and forgot about it until now...The fabric for this high waisted skirt I have had a long time. It was originally bought for a dress but it crinkled so much I didn't fancy having to iron it all the time...

While this skirt is an easy sew it is work intensive, firstly you have to get your head around the Japanese, then you have to trace your pattern and add seam allowances. Rin has done a great job with all the things you need to know about Japanese patterns, and the English instructions for the skirt. A great resource to have.

Though I must say me being me, who is always doing things backwards. I started out this sewing project without reading anything except the English instructions for 'How to putting the skirt together', nothing else. Hence I missed adding seam allowances onto the skirt. I just went for it and followed the pictures and forgot about seam allowances.

Sometimes I believe learning by doing is the way to go, and today was the day I followed that philosophy. I absolutely loved making this skirt, it was a challenge through my own making. I found the whole process interesting, and I was so pleased with the fit for someone who is over 6ft.

This is my daughter's skirt. I've never been able to wear gathered skirts I'm too short wasted, they just don't suit me. I cut the pattern and fabric out on LL size. I probably could have gone a size down or even smaller as I had plenty of fabric left over on the back seam when fitting. This pattern is so much nicer than a similar skirt I made, a New Look high waisted gathered skirt.

If you want to purchase this ebook you can find out about it here.

Awhile back I had my lovely Japanese daughter in-law help me look at a children's Japanese pattern book that I bought awhile back. It was interesting for me because she is not a sewer so we ended up being both learners together. She was able to translate the Japanese words into English, and I could tell her what they meant for me when cutting out the pattern and sewing it.  It was a nice time together.

Who hates those hem fittings? I am afraid I am not the nicest hem fitter, you certainly wouldn't want me marking your hem. I am just so impatient with my commands, that I actually almost yell when the person turns the wrong way....Only to my family though. Poor things they have to stand on a table really still with me barking commands from underneath.

Finally it's hemmed...

Here is the finished skirt, it was very sunny out so the pics aren't as clear as I would have liked. The hem wasn't that easy to do because the fabric is just so flimsy. I just straight stitched it in the end on the good old Bernina 801. But I must say I really enjoyed sewing from this pattern. You might like to try it too!

The fabric I used was a very light cotton that crinkled so easily
A very floaty fabric perhaps it should have been lined. But I
didn't want to add bulk around the waist.

Will sew again at some stage. Loved this project and
I love how the way the fabric flows and the style...

Not So Merry Merrylock...

I don't sew for myself very much but I thought I'd make the effort using the Merrylock overlocker....It was a case of 'dumber and dumber'. Two hours later I emerged from trying to fix my stitches. I hate changing thread on my overlocker because nine times out of ten I'll stuff up my stitches...

What a messy stitch!

What was wrong? The owner of course, all I needed to do was shift the switch from rolled hem to normal which I finally figured out once I got the manual after a couple of hours....

Easy instructions!

It goes very well now. Moral of the story: It's always important for you to actually remember you have a manual to your overlocker. Duh...could my brain be any foggier!

Fixed!

Dusting Cloths

My dusting cloths are made the same way as my cleaning cloths. A very easy sew I thought until the overlocker unthreaded itself....Almost an hour later (I've lost my threader) I finally managed to re-thread the machine and continued sewing.

During my many attempts I noticed the lower looper threaded with woolly nylon thread wasn't threaded properly (I hate that and to make it worse it's woolly nylon, my worst nightmare).....It can stay that way for now, threading the TruLock is a mission at the best of times.

Who wants to thread the woolly nylon again? not me that's for sure!

Pink this time (micro fleece)
These are going to a friend.....

Two Days Lost to NameTags

Name tags are so easy to make if you have a sewing machine that will embroider the letters you want....Usually I buy flash name tags for whoever needs them, but not this time. I'm having a frugal 2012 (well I think I am until the next fabric sale!) so I have made them and all it cost me was time....

I used a Linen fabric which I ironed onto the wrong side 'iron-on stiffening'. Then I set the Juki to write/embroider what letters I needed. Next I threaded up the machine with a red cotton, this was nice and bright on the white linen (little eyes can see the tag easily).

I overlocked around the edges to stop the tags fraying with a 3-thread, overlock (one thread being woolly nylon). At first I cut the ends off the name tags but then soon realized I could just fold the thread behind the name tag when sewing it on (so much easier).

Now to sew them onto the clothes...

Merrylock 4-Thread Overlocker

I've had the chance to use a Merrylock 4- thread 740DSA  domestic overlocker.  It is made by the Tsang Yu Industrial Co. Ltd. The company produces other well known brands such as Singer, Elna and Babylock.

There's not a lot of information out there about Merrylock overlockers/sergers........So I'll tell you a wee bit about this machine........The overlocker is made in Taiwan and it it can do  a 4 thread stitch and 3 thread stitch and you can do a rolled hem. It's a built in rolled hem, no change of plate is required (just flick a switch). The Merrylock has differential feed too.......but the tension is manual. To change the overlocker form 4-thread to 3-thread you just take out one needle.

The price of the overlocker is around NZ $350.00.......It comes with an instruction book written in English, fairly easy to follow if you've owned an overlocker before. I still got stuck with the lower lopper but got there in the end (it has a auto-lopper threader, took me awhile to figure this out). The Merrylock 4-thread overlocker comes with the usual basic accessories and a waste tray. The accessory box is built-in, you just pull out to open and everything is there you need.

The Merrylock looks very similar to The Babylock (I think this overlocker is a Babylock Prestige with out the brand name), though some say it is similar to the Elna.......The overlocker comes with a basic plastic cover also, just the same as my Tru-Lock one from all those years ago........

Click here to read about the Merrylock 007 (a Merrylock cover stitch machine not the 4-thread I'm reviewing ). The cover stitch machine looks very good for it's price.......This is a good website to browse and learn about different sewing overlocking machines.......wished I'd found it earlier.

Do I like using it? At first I found it a bit tinny, different from the the heavy Tru-lock. Once I got my threading organized (took me a wee while for first go) and then set the tension it has been very enjoyable overlocker to use. Certainly a good buy for an entry level machine. A good overlocker to use for hobby classes or just as a spare......and it's light to carry about too!

Merrylock 4-thread
The heart stickers are my instructions on how to
work the machine &  regulate tensions
Merrylock uses HAx1 needles......

Colour co-ordinated hearts.......I go this idea for instruction sticker
 from a fellow blogger. Great for learning how your overlocker works!

Not a bad stitch I quite like it.....(my Elna stitch doesn't
look like this Hmmm!)

Baby Lock Prestige 750DS looks exactly the same
as the Merrylock except for the cotton guide hooks
 There is also no inch centimetre markings on the front
 of the Babylock like the Merrlyock.........